
Zagora is a natural break point in the Trans Morocco Trail – if you’ve started at Nador, you’ve come down the Rekkam, over the more benign desert sections to eventually make it to Erfoud and Merzouga, before heading back in to the desert, up into the High Atlas and back down again. If you’re on…

Note: This article is an updated version of the Melilla-specific post shared in November 2024. A bit of context When crossing the Mediterranean from southern Spain to begin the TMT you have a choice, depending on your timings and how you want to handle the border and customs control – you can either can a…

I’m currently parked up in a pizzeria just down the coast from Almeria, scoffing my first decent meal in 24 hours. I had planned to get the Balearia boat last night, to arrive bright and early to the Spanish enclave at Melilla, just next to Nador. Unfortunately a knackered regulator/rectifier put paid to that idea,…

When it comes to the prospect of motorcycle desert riding, it’s hard not to be inspired by the romantic image of a lone Dakar rider ploughing through huge landscapes at full tilt, with a plume of dust stretching out far behind them. And at the end of the day, it sometimes simply isn’t possible to…